Goodbye Israel

This will be my last post.  I have decided to go home and be with my family for the remainder of the semester.  I go back to Georgia this Friday, and I will be at Wesleyan Sunday, April 12th-Friday, April 19th.  No, nothing happened.  I've been thinking of taking time off from school for years now.  If any of you want to know more details, ask me in person.

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New Classes and Bodies of Water

These last few weeks have been a very odd combination of emotions about the old and the new.  Having lived in Jerusalem as a kid in the next neighborhood over from where I am now, a lot of bittersweet childhood memories have come back to me as I've been rediscovering this wonderful country as an adult.  I've been having a great time seeing places I haven't seen in over a decade and getting deja vu, but it's also hard to remember that the last time I was in all of these places, I was with my family, which includes my dearly departed mother.  And so while I'm very happy here, settling down as all my classes are in full swing, I'm also finally being forced to think about things I was able to ignore at Wesleyan, a place where my mother wasn't a major part of my life.  And on that happy note...

Three weeks ago, my semester in the international school FINALLY started.  My classes are, for the most part, pretty good.  I tested into the fourth highest level of Hebrew (out of six) so I actually feel challenged.  And my favorite class is "Revolution and Reaction: Eastern European Jews in the 19th and 20th Century."  It is so interesting.  It's the kind of history class I like most: the kind where how people thought and went about their lives is more important than random dates.  It feels like a COL seminar only it's about my family's history.  For our term paper, we have to write about a family member who lived in Eastern Europe and emigrated and the circumstances in the area that lead to their emigration.  It took me a few weeks to find out how to spell my grandfather's town in Hungary, Satorlja Ujhely (pronounced shah-tah-rah oo-ee-hell).

That weekend, I did one of the big things you HAVE to do when you visit Israel:  I went hiking in Ein Gedi and floating in the Dead Sea.  Ein Gedi is an oasis in Israel that has all kinds of plants and animals from Europe, Asia, and Africa.  It was incredibly beautiful (see waterfall below).  The second my friends and I got to the Dead Sea, we had to cover ourselves in mud and take lots of pictures and then wash off in the Dead Sea, which is so dense with minerals that you can practically stand in it.  No seriously, I walked on the Sea.  There were all kinds of salts that collected on some rocks, and, on a dare (because I'm ten apparently), I licked one...yeah that was a bad idea.

 

Ein Gedi, Being covered in mud

Shortly after my classes started, my wonderful boyfriend came to visit me, which was really nice.  He got here just in time for Purim, a Jewish holiday that is a cross between Halloween and Mardi Gras...with cookies.  The traditional way to celebrate Purim is to wear a costume, eat triangular cookies, and get so drunk that you can't tell the difference between the good guy and the bad guy in the Purim story.  I didn't really go out that much because Zach was jet-lagged, but it was still quite an experience seeing ultra-orthodox Jews with suits and black coats and top hats and long, curly hair in the front of their faces (called peyos) drunkenly screaming and dancing in the street all day.  One man was dancing on his balcony with no railing that couldn't have been more than a few meters by a few meters big, and he was soon followed by a friend, and the two of them stayed there for several hours.  It was hysterical.  There were parades in Tel-Aviv.  They even threw a party in a mall by the old city.

That Friday, Zach and I went to a monastery just outside Jerusalem called Latrun where we bought really good bread, olives, and wine and had a picnic staring at the scenery.  If any of you come visit me, this is what you will do because the food is delicious, the monastery is gorgeous, and (perhaps most importantly) I am cheap.

The next week, I took off class for a few days so Zach and I could spend our last few days together in Eilat.  Eilat is right by the Red Sea, which has beautiful and diverse sea life.  It is also a HUGE tourist spot, which was both good and bad.  Most menus were in Hebrew and English and sometimes Russian and/or French too, everything was expensive, and there were all kinds of American stores there.  It felt a little weird for me because compared to Jerusalem, which I had almost gotten used to by then, Eilat felt very American.  On the other hand, because they were catering to a lot of non-Israelis, everyone seemed to appreciate it when we spoke in Hebrew (as opposed to getting annoyed and responding in English), and the majority of the music that was on at restaurants was in Hebrew (most Israeli radio stations play American music).  Among other things, Zach and I went snorkeling and hiking, in beautiful scenery (as always in Israel), and when it was too windy for me to go snorkeling, we went to an underwater observatory, where I took the picture below.

All in all, Zach's visit was filled with exciting adventures and a welcome feeling that I'm not as cut off from home as I thought I was.  And basically, I'm doing well, and I will actually update this blog in the near future...really!

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Winter Ulpan: Check! Blog...oh yeah!

As Lindsay so eloquently explained, it is really hard to figure out what to say in a blog.  Shortly after my last entry, my ulpan (Hebrew classes) went from 10 hours a week to 30, and all thoughts of what to write in my blog went out the window.  As I discovered during the last few weeks, my Hebrew grammar is a lot better than I thought it was, but I have the vocabulary of an eight year old with a learning disability (since I was eight when I lived here).  When I discussed this with the ulpan coordinator, she suggested trying to test into a higher level.  So I did.  I'll find out how I did when I start my classes on Sunday *fingerscrossed*

I met my new roommate a few weeks ago.  Her name is Noam.  She is from Tel-Aviv, but she lived in Holland for a few years, and she's an English Literature/Psychology double major, which means she and I can both help each other by speaking in our native languages.  So we agreed to alternate between English days and Hebrew days.  She and I get along pretty well, and our first weekend together, she invited me to stay with her in Tel-Aviv.  Her little sister, Roni, is my age and is a medic in the IDF.  And her boyfriend, Ben, does something in intelligence.  The four of us went biking (something I hadn't done in a really long time) in downtown Tel-Aviv.  Roni pointed out to me some historical sights, and Noam pointed out to me the best stores in which to shop.  We went to a poster shop, where Noam and I discovered we have the same taste in movies including The Rocky Horror Picture Show so we decided to go see it together that night.  It was mostly the same as the U.S. except the intro was in Hebrew, and since elections were coming up, there were a few cracks about the top three politicians running for prime minister...I think.  We also watched the first season of my new favorite television show: M'rachak N'giah (A Touch Away) about a Russian immigrant family living in an extremely orthodox neighborhood.  In the show, the son (who is quite the hottie) falls madly in love with his next-door neighbor, whose marriage is being arranged.  Drama ensues.

The following weekend, some family friends invited me over for Shabbat dinner.  That night, their son brought some interesting guests: Three doctors who had come to evaluate the humanitarian situation in Gaza and a nun who had been translating for them.  The doctors had worked in various countries.  They told us about the situation and the non-Jewish ones asked questions about the Jewish customs we did for Shabbat (blessings for the meal, drinking wine, etc.).  It was really interesting to talk to them.

That week, I went to the Israel Museum.  Most of the exhibits are currently under construction, but I went to the Shrine of the Book (where the Dead Sea Scrolls are displayed), the sculpture garden, and the history and art sections of the museum.  I hadn't been to the museum since 1998, and I was startled to find that things were smaller than I remember.  On the other hand, now that I know more about Israel's history, the documents that I saw (which included a record of what the leaders of the country thought would happen right before the Yom Kippur War, the speech that was in Yitzchak Rabin's pocket when he was shot (complete with borderline-creepy blood stains), and the Declaration of Independence) seemed much more interesting.   .

That weekend, my friend Ari, who is here on the freshman program, turned 18 so we all celebrated by going out to dinner and then a bar.  She started jumping when she got carded for the first time.

This Sunday, I will start my classes in the international school.  If I get what I want, I will be in "Revolution and Reaction: East European Jews in the 19th and 20th Centuries," "Biblical Figures and Stories in Jewish, Christian, and Islamic Art," and Hebrew.  In March, I will start my class at Hebrew University on English lit in the Middle Ages and Renaissance, which I will be taking with my roommate.  In the meantime, I will enjoy my last few days of class-less freedom before Passover break in April when I will see all of you.

P.S.  I promise to update more often from now on.  Here are some pictures to make up for my lack of posting.

 

The Shrine of the Book, The Ahavah (love) sculpture

 

The Israeli Declaration of Independence, An art piece made entirely of glass beads

Some friends I met in the international school: Sarah, (me), Shaina, Ari, Emily, and Margot

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Snow? Haha!

Everyone else is posting about weather so I thought I'd rub it in that I have absolutely amazing weather here.  It's warm and beautiful every day, and cuddly cats continue to roam the streets.  My roommate turned out to be amazing, but she moved out.  So now I'm going to get a new Israeli roommate plus I'm friends with my old one so I guess I'll get two Israeli acquaintances for the price of one.  I switched into a higher Hebrew class, and I'm doing pretty well in it so yay.  One of my American friends had her birthday this weekend so a group of us celebrated by going to Tel-Aviv and hanging out with some of her Israeli friends from camp and going to a club.  She has a friend from camp who showed us around, and we met his army friends who told me all about what it was like serving in Gaza back when there were settlers there...in Hebrew...and I understood!  They had some really great stories.  And all in all, it was really fun to be in Tel-Aviv.  Meanwhile, here in Jerusalem, there's a coffee shop right next to my dorm that has amazing sandwiches and free internet...they already know me by name!  I have discovered shoko, a milk drink with chocolate in it that is amazing when hot.  I think we should change the name of this blog to Coffee, Tea, Vodka, and Guinness...and Shoko!  My Hebrew classes are only a few hours a day, and my semester doesn't start until Feb. 22 so basically I'm having a great time here relaxing and enjoying the city.

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Bad news:  I don't have internet in my dorm.  Good news: I just found out that the cafe next to my dorm does.  I start Hebrew classes tomorrow, and I start my semester in late February.I was put in the second lowest Hebrew level, but the textbook for it is the same as the one I used in intermediate Hebrew, which I took before taking Hebrew lit, so I'm pretty sure I'll be able to switch out.  Jerusalem is incredibly beautiful.  It's like any typical big city except that every building is made of Jerusalem stone, which looks shiny and kind of yellow-ish when the sun hits it just right, which is where the term "Jerusalem of gold" comes from.  I met my roommate this morning for about five minutes in between her trip home for the weekend and her morning classes.  She seems nice enough so far.  There are a ton of cats on the streets, and I keep having to resist the urge to pick them up and pet them because if they bite me, I have to get a bajillion rabies shots...by law.  Yesterday, I went to the neighborhood I lived in in third grade, French Hill where I saw my old apartment complex, my old playground, and my old supermarket.  And of course, this meant that I had to buy all my old favorite foods that are particularly good in Israel: a pudding/whipped cream combo snackpack-like thing called milky, bisli (the snacks I sometimes gave out in Alpha Delt), a spice called zaatar, amazing olives and pickles, freshly made pita, and super creamy hummus that even Sabra can't compare to.  And I took advantage of finally being the legal drinking age by buying some good Israeli wine.  In short, these last few days have been a great combination of feeling nostalgia for my life when I lived here in third grade and excitement about my new life, which is slowly coming together.  And of course, I also miss everyone at home.

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I'm Here! I'm Here!...Almost

I haven't been in the same place for more than a week this break.  In order, I've been in Boston, Athens, Jamaica, Athens, Atlanta, Athens. Tomorrow, I leave for Newark, where I will stay with a family friend overnight.  On Tuesday, I get on a ten-hour flight for Israeli that arrives on Wednesday morning (Israel time).  Especially after reading my peers' blog entries and e-mails, I can't wait to finally go to Jerusalem and settle in, not only because I'm incredibly excited to be going to Jerusalem for the first time in nearly eleven years, but also I'm starting to feel a little bit like a nomad (though I'm happy to be in all the places I've been).

It's starting to sink in just how far away I'll be from everyone I know and love.  I took my sister to the World of Coca Cola, and I couldn't help thinking that so many of my friends would start talking about commercialism and corporate America, and I miss that.  At the same time, I'm getting  more excited every minute as my trip gets closer and closer.  After months of various crises (which is to be expected with Israeli bureaucracy), I now know that I will have a dorm room with an Israeli roommate.  These last few days, I've just been trying to practice my Hebrew as much as possible by listening to Israeli music and talking to my father in Hebrew.  And tonight, I'll watch an Israeli film...while I pack.  Oh yeah, I still haven't packed.  Haha!  Woops.

To those of you who are concerned about my safety:  Don't worry.  There hasn't been a suicide bomb in Jerusalem since 2004.  And I have been assured that the areas that are threatened right now are those within 40 km (about 25 miles) of the Gaza Strip.  Jerusalem is functioning the same as ever.  As a precaution, I have been told not to go to Arab neighborhoods in East Jerusalem or the Old City, but this is nothing new.  There are all kinds of security measures taken on campus, and there is a system with which the university can notify me of anything new.

And on that happy note, I will end this very long post.  As they say, next year...um, few days...in Jerusalem!

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