Week 19 in Russia: Saying Goodbye to Siberia

As I wrote this, I was looking out my airplane window onto the great Russian landscape. I saw my last bit of snow on the caps of mountains from my flight from Irkutsk to Moscow. I can't believe that my five months in Russia have come to an end. It flew, just as I will fly from Moscow to Chicago.

My last week in Irkutsk began last Sunday with "City Day"--a holiday celebrating the city of Irkutsk. I had been working on my 15 page paper, but took a break in the evening to hear a jazz concert on the banks of the Angara. An African American jazz singer performed--and I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who understood her as she chatted and sang in English. I almost wanted to shout "GO USA!" or something equivalent in solidarity to another American in Irkutsk, but I held it back. Instead, Sasha and I went for a walk and took stupid pictures with a Dima Bilan perfume advertisement.

This is a gift for Hannah.

I finished my paper on Monday and turned it in Tuesday morning. The rest of the day Tuesday, Sasha and I went to Listvianka for a picnic and my farewell to Baikal. In celebration, I even ate Omyl', the traditional fish to eat from Baikal. This video is from that beautiful last day on Baikal:

Wednesday and Thursday I ran around running errands: buying souvenirs, gathering documents from the university, and packing. On Thursday, I went to the international office to fax my transcript to Wesleyan. While I was waiting, I chatted with the women who work in the office. One of them paused, looked up at me and said, "If I didn't already know that you were a foreigner, I would have thought that you were Russian." She conferred with her colleague and they agreed that my accent was barely audible. It was a great compliment for me, leaving that office for the last time.

Thursday night was my last GBT club meeting, so I made banana chocolate-chip muffins for the last time. Katya and Sasha came over to help. Out meeting went as per usual, but right before we concluded, Natasha announced my departure and I was gifted with a bunch of balloons, a cook's apron and oven mitt, Baikal souvenirs, and a map of GBT's trails on Lake Baikal. I was near to tears, but held it back as we took pictures together. Sasha picked us up, took Katya home, and then we watched half of Slumdog Millionaire with curried popcorn.

With Katya

On Friday, I ran my last errands, taking pictures and buying final souvenirs. I met Sasha on the banks of the Angara for our last walk, and then we went to the grocery store to buy Russian candy and beer. I was almost out of rubles, but with my last 50 rubles, we stopped at a vegetable stand to get something for dinner. I ended up getting a carrot, 2 potatoes, 3 tomatoes, and 2 cucumbers for the equivalent of about $1.20, and then we went home to make paella, tortilla espanola, tomato-cucumber salad, and sauteed mushrooms with the remaining ingredients that I had. I started to get gloomy about leaving after emptying my fridge and cooking my last dinner, and was in light tears on my balcony, when I realized that I had 50 rubles left that I didn't notice earlier. I asked Sasha if he wanted ice cream, so we scurried off to the store to get some with my last 50 rubles. We bought two with 9 rubles to spare, and went to the children's playground to swing. We ate ice cream, swung on a two-person swing (not sure what they're called, but you face each other, sitting, kind a like on a bench), and then raced back to the store like little kids. I felt so much better and didn't want to cry anymore. After that, Sasha went home and I called my friend Yulya to say goodbye. We walked for almost an hour, and then I went to our going away party on the fifth floor. I said my goodbyes and went to bed.

In the morning, Sasha came to take me to the airport. There, my friends from GBT met me to send me off. I was happy to see them again, and really had to keep from crying when I separated from them to go through security. I just read a letter from Katya, telling me that I had become like a sister to her, and she's right. I feel like I have more than just a second-cousin in Siberia. I have an entire extended family. I promised them all that I would see them again, and I feel better about leaving when I have the strong intention of returning firmly planted in my mind. A part of me is there, a piece of my heart, and I know I will return. I felt very loved getting on that plane, and I know that open arms await me when I return. Thank you for everything. I promise I'll be back.

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Week 18 in Russia: Olkhon Island

Week 18--my second-to-last week in Russia. It's starting to sink in that I'm leaving in a week. I have taken all my exams and only have one 15 page paper standing in my way to enjoying the 80 degree weather during my last week. Luckily, the weather is cooperating with my wish to get some work done this weekend, and it's currently 50 degrees and rainy. The forecast is promising from Monday-Saturday, though, so I'd better get my work done fast. As in, I should be working instead of writing this blog right now, but eh, I've got the rest of the night.

Anyway, last Saturday and Sunday, I went with four Russians and two other Americans to Olkhon Island. We set off bright and early Saturday morning, stopping along the way at a camp that Sasha lived in for a few weeks of a practicum during the summer after his first course in construction. He was excited to see that it was still intact, and proceeded to take a handful of pictures on my camera:

The road after our stop at Sasha's old camp was pretty much non-existent. The other car that we were traveling with got a flat tire and had to change to the spare. The road got better right before we made it to the ferry-crossing to Olkhon Island. There we waited about an hour and a half for the next ferry, seeing the view of the island from the shore and making friends with the local wild cows.

Jake wants to play, the cow doesn't

The view from the shore before taking the ferry

When the ferry finally came, I had another taste of Russian "lines" as cars from the back of the line cut in front of our car to get on the first ferry. We waited and got on the second one, though, and the ride was beautiful.

Sasha looking out over Lake Baikal on the ferry

Once on the other side, we caught up to the other car, which had made it across on the first ferry. We decided to go climb on a highly sacred rock to the Buryat people. You're not really supposed to climb it. Or collect rocks. Of course, we obeyed these rules...right? (PS Mom, I have some rocks for you).

After playing on the rock a bit (and for me, collecting rocks), we drove along the beach to find a place to set up camp. We chose a spot not far from where the sacred rock is located, and set up three tents only a walks distance from the beach. It was windy, but otherwise the weather was great. We made soup, salad, and sashlik, and enjoyed our feast in the fresh air. At night, we gathered around the fire for warmth and toasted to our trip.

Our camp: 3 tents and a fire / The sunset over Baikal

In the morning, I took a walk with Sasha's friend Yurka to the cliffs at end of our beach. Jake, one of the Americans, decided to take a dip in Lake Baikal. I thought about it, but just getting my feet wet was cold enough for me. Yurka and I had breakfast and played cards until lunchtime. After lunch, I took a nap in the sun and got some serious sunburn on my face. We packed up our stuff and headed back to Irkutsk, arriving around midnight to our dormitory.

Jake tests the water / We all pose for a picture

The rest of this week was all in Irkutsk. I sang "Star-Crossed" from Steve Sunu's Orpheus at a "Best Students" ceremony on Tuesday. They had asked me to perform again, and this time I was allowed to chose a song. Naturally, I chose one that I knew well, and that is close to my heart. :)

On Wednesday, my second cousin came to Irkutsk to get a visa from the Polish embassy. She was here until Friday night. I showed her around Irkutsk and we skype with my mom and babushka on Friday before she left. It was great to see her again and know that our ties are firmly established.

Next week, when I write this blog, I will be saying my goodbyes--if I haven't said them already. I am looking forward to a week of good weather, and hope that I get this paper finished in time to enjoy it!

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Week 17 in Russia: Trailblazing Across Siberia

And now for weekly update with Elizabeth Trammell and...Elizabeth Trammell.

It seems like everyone else has fallen off the face of this blog, but I will continue keep you entertained with two more weekly updates. :)

Last week (actually two weekends ago, but I count Sunday as the start of a new week), Great Baikal Trail held its yearly seminar at the Botanical Garden. This seminar is a "mini project" as final preparation for the summer. I have spent this semester preparing and training as if I were going on a summer project as a translator, group leader, or a helper of a group leader. This seminar was my chance to feel as if I went on a summer project. :)

Great Baikal Trail's Banner

My group's work on Saturday

My Table at Dinner on Saturday

We started early Saturday morning at 9am. It was drizzly and cold, but we happily continued with our icebreakers and getting to know each other. After working in groups for a little while, we decided the weather was nice enough to begin work. At first, I was working as a volunteer on the trail, under the direction of a 'brigadier' (or group leader). We took a break for lunch and I acted in a skit with the other people who were trained as translators. (Translators not only translate for foreigners on the project--they also provide entertainment and make sure that everyone has a good time). After our lunch break, however, our volunteer coordinator decided to try an experiment and switched me in to be the group leader. I didn't really know what I was doing, but it was an honor for me to feel as if I were a brigadier on a project, even for half a day. I feel like I learned more by trying to be a group leader, and I'm very grateful for the experience. We all worked together, and as group leader I called out our five minute breaks, checked the evenness of the trail, and made sure everyone stuck to our safety rules. I ended up leaving after dinner, even though some people stayed the night at the Botanical Garden. I was dead tired, came home, took a bath, and slept like a baby.

Some early Sunday morning entertainment from one of our translators

The part of the trail we finished on Sunday

Olga, my group leader, putting down gravel

"..I've been working on the trail, all the live long day."

The next morning, I returned for half a day's work back on the trail. This time, I switched groups to fill in as a helper of a group leader ('brigadier helper' when literally translated from Russian). I also got to explain to a group of new adult volunteers how to work on the trail. We finished our section and started putting gravel down before lunch. After lunch, I had to go, but I felt satisfied knowing that I helped build 150 meters of trail in the Botanical Garden as a translator, group leader, and helper. Even though I am sad about not being able to go on a summer project, the seminar made me feel as though I was able to participate. Next summer, I want more than anything to come back in some capacity for a summer project. Now that I know the ropes and have had all the intensive training--how could I not?

I must also note that last week my roommate went back to America. Before her departure, we created a photo session around town. Technically, this picture goes with Week 16, but in honor of her departure during Week 17, I have included it. I can't believe I've been without her for almost a whole week already. My room is quiet and empty without you--I miss you, Hannah!

Next time: The last big trip - Camping on Olkhon Island

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Week 16 in Russia: Meeting a Long Lost Relative

Svetlana and I at the Chita train station

Last week, my 16th week in mother Russia, I was fortunate to meet a member of my family whom no one in my immediate family has ever met, my second-cousin Svetlana. When my Babushka left Russia for Germany when she was a teenager, her brother followed her and worked in Germany at a hospital there. When he returned to Russia, he was sent to Siberia. There, he worked as a surgeon and raised a family. Last weekend, I met his daughter, my mother's cousin. My babushka has been in contact with her for quite some time, but has never met her. I am the first one in my family to return to Russia, and thus, the first one to meet her. I was ecstatic, nervous, excited...

The morning I left, there was snow on the ground in Irkutsk. It had been 80 degrees the day before, but I quickly learned that the weather changes on a dime here (it just snowed again today, by the way). I arrived in Chita to sunny weather and Svetlana, holding a copy of "Liza" magazine so that I would recognize her. She took me on a tour of Chita by car, then we went to her apartment to drop off my bag. We ate a little bit and looked through photo albums. I recognized many of the faces, and even saw some pictures that Babushka had sent her brother and Sveta over the years. I also gave Sveta a photo album with more recent pictures of my family. She was grateful, and I felt very comfortable with her. She left to go to the hospital, where she works as a children's surgeon and professor. When she cam back a few hours later, we took a walking tour of Chita, and came back to her apartment to make dinner.

The main square with a Lenin statue, of course/The train station/The main Russian Orthodox Church

The next morning, I awoke to a thick layer of snow. The weather from Irkutsk arrives in Chita a day later. We went to Sveta's dacha after breakfast, and then as guests to a few of her friends. We also drove all around the countryside to take pictures. I had to borrow a warmer coat, shoes, a hat, and scarf from Sveta because it was so chilly with the snow on the ground. We went back home to make dinner with the onions we picked and stayed in for the night. I even got a little work done on a research paper for one of my courses. It was relaxing.

Sveta and rhododendron/Me and a Reindeer Statue/Sveta's bright green dacha

The next morning, the weather went bonkers. It was sunny for our trip to the Decembrist Museum, the World War II park, and to a lookout point over the whole city of Chita. After that, we set out to a natural mineral water spring, but the weather didn't want to cooperate. It was sunny and warm before we left, then turned cold and windy, to rainy, to hail, and back to sunny again. It was bizarre. We were happy to come home to warmth and make dinner.


View of Chita from a lookout point/Me in front of the water well/The mineral water source

I slept in the next day while Sveta went to the hospital in the morning. We spent the rest of the day running around Chita. I went to the hospital where she works and finally saw her office and met her collegue, whom we were visiting after dinner that night. We went to register my visa, get souvenirs, and go to a few churches. We went to vespers in the Russian Orthodox Church where Sveta was baptised (the blue church pictured earlier). It was a really neat experience. After vespers, we went home to fix a light dinner, and then went to visit her colleague at his brand new apartment. It was a beautiful flat, and I wish I had taken my camera. It was walking distance from Sveta's, so I didn't bring anything with me. I enjoyed the conversation and promised to come back next summer to visit.

The next day, Sveta and I visited a the regional history museum before eating lunch and heading to the airport. The weather was gorgeous--almost 80 degrees and sunny. When I arrived in Irkutsk, it was 40 and raining. Oh, Siberian weather.. That sums up Week 16, minus an end-of-the-week photo session with Sasha and Hannah, which I will add to facebook/vkontakte rather than here. Next time: building a trail in the Botanical Garden with GBT!

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Week 15 in Russia: Raccoon Dogs in Ulan Ude

This semester has fulfilled a series of life goals for me. One, to learn the Russian language. Two, to travel to Russia. Three, to see a raccoon dog.

Last week in Russia (Week 15), began with a trip to Ulan Ude, fully-organized by SRAS, my exhange program. I traveled by train with another American girl, Candace, and we stayed two nights with a host family, spending a total of three days in Ulan Ude. Ulan Ude is on the Eastern side of Lake Baikal, in Buryatia. It is known for the biggest statue of Lenin's head in Russia, and several Buddhist temples, one of which is considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. Candace and I were lucky enough to see two temples, eat dinner in a traditional Buryat yurta, visit several museums, go to an Old Believer's village to get drunk with a samagon'ka, and most importantly for me: see a raccoon dog. I'll get to the raccoon dog a little later. First, pictures of Ulan Ude, with commentary:

When we first arrived, our guide, Svetlana, took us to the center of town to see the famous statue of Lenin's head. Ulan Ude is most well known for this great leader's giant noggin:

Next, after walking down Ulan Ude's main market street, Svetlana took us for a traditional Buryat' dinner in a yurta, a traditional Buryat' home. (It's like a teepee for the Native Americans--no one lives in them now, but there are a lot of them around for tourists to see). Svetlana insisted on taking our photos with just about everything in and around the restaurant:

After that, we went to a datsan not far from the center of town. When visiting a datsan, Buddhists walk the perimeter in a circle and spin prayer wheels, laying coins at each station. Only after making the circle to the datsan do you enter, and in the datsan, it is forbidden to take pictures. We were there during a service, and quietly followed our guides as they made a circle to the idols within the interior, laying coins and saying prayers at each station. We left the datsan and finished the exterior circle and remaining prayer wheels.

The next day, we visited another datsan, further away from the city center, and considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. We took a similar trip around and inside the temples, and I particularly enjoyed the environment and surroundings at this datsan:

We also went to an Old Believers' Village, about a forty minute drive from the city center. The Old Believers split from Russian Orthodox church in the 1660s, wanting to preserve the old traditions when the church changed. They were sent by the tsar to Siberia, the Ukraine, and Poland, where they were allowed to preserve their faith in closed-off communities. We visited one such community, their museum, church, and had lunch in one of their homes. Our hostess, as it turns out, makes her own alcohol, which, apparently is about 90 proof. I, out of politeness, continued to drink 4 shots of this potent stuff, and well...let's just say it took awhile for the buzz to wear off, and poor Candace was certain she would get sick on the bumpy car ride back to Ulan Ude:

We also visited the ethnographic museum, which happens to host a zoo with native Siberian species. Candace and I saw camels, bears, moose, reindeer, wild boar, foxes, eagles, but what stopped me in my tracks was an unassuming little fur ball with very important species name..

Now, when I was younger, think 11 years old or so, I was in love with the idea of being a veterinarian or a marine biologist. In my spare time, I liked to pour over the pages of my enormous "Encyclopedia of Mammals." There, by family, each species of mammal on earth is catalogued and described. One day, I was reading the canine section, and happened upon the raccoon dog, native to East Asia. I showed the picture of the raccoon dog to my brother, who was convinced that an actual canine species that looks like a raccoon didn't exist. I was upset, at 11 or so years old, trying to argue with him that they do exist, and they didn't just paste a picture of a raccoon under the title "raccoon dog" to trick little girls like me who read the "Encylopedia of Mammals" in their free time. I swore that I would find a raccoon dog someday, proving that they really exist, but couldn't fathom how far away its natural habitat was located, somewhere on the other side of the planet. Well, Nick, my darling brother, last week I saw a real live raccoon dog. Actually, four. And here are the pictures to prove that they really do exist, and in Siberia, no less. One childhood life goal down, many to go:

The trip to Ulan Ude was a success, in more ways than one. I accomplished a life goal I had forgotten about, buried somewhere in the back of my mind, and had a great multi-cultural experience. When I said I was going to Ulan Ude, many Russians asked "for what?" or said that I need only see the datsan and Lenin's head, and then come back to Irkutsk. But I disagree, Ulan Ude had much more in store, from getting tipsy with an old believer to seeing a raccoon dog. :)

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Week 14 in Russia: Our Hearts Were at Wesleyan

Last Wednesday, a life was taken at our small, quiet liberal arts university in Middletown, Connecticut. Johanna Justin-Jinich was a friend, a daughter, a classmate, and a student, whose life ended tragically in a brutal shooting on the Wesleyan campus. Those shots were heard around the world, echoing in the minds of students on campus and abroad, alumni, faculty, staff and the surrounding community.

When I heard the news, I wanted nothing else but to be on campus, supporting and embracing friends during this terribly tragedy. These events consumed not only my thoughts, but the thoughts of each person connected with Wesleyan. For this reason, I forego my usual update, and instead ask that you say a prayer or take a moment of silence for Johanna and her close family and friends. There is a wound in the heart of each person connected to this too short of a life which will only heal with time, support, and loving remembrance.

If you have not yet heard about this in the news, I recommend that you follow the link to a New York Times article, which outlines the events well, and I believe, does Johanna's memory justice.

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Week 13 in Russia: Singing in a Park and Climbing on Boulders

Week 13 began last Sunday with my volunteer training course where I learned how to safely operate a chainsaw (There are pictures floating around somewhere of me chain-sawing some trees in a skirt). I then went straight from the woods of the Botanical Garden, where I had cut myself a ring of a tree as a souvenir, to meet my friend Olya. It took me awhile to find the bus stop to meet her, but once I was there, I went with Olya and her friend Aleksei to a park across the Angara River. We were gathering there with a Russian folk ensemble that preforms Russian traditional dances and songs. They were meeting in the park for a picnic in belated celebration of the Easter holiday, called "The Spring Walk." (There is also a "Winter Walk," I am told, after Christmas/New Year's). It was a beautiful location, and I really enjoyed listening to the music and learning the dances. I spent about four hours there, happily enjoying the warm spring air, before going home to do some homework.

Below is a video of my friend Olya and Aleksei taking their turn down the line during one of the dances (Yes, there was an accordian player accompanying us):

The rest of the week went by quickly, as Friday was a holiday and we didn't have classes. ("Into the streets, May 1st..." -- a Socialist holiday we don't quite celebrate in the States). My friend Paul, from South Africa, was heading home for a few weeks, so he organized a picnic as a little going-away party. The weather was gorgeous and there were so many people outside by the river. We played games, had a lovely picnic, and looked at all the fountains. There are fountains everywhere in Irkutsk, and they turn them all on for the May 1st holiday. I took many many videos, but included only one, which should look familiar if you saw last week's video:

After the picnic, I gathered some camping gear and met two friends from GBT at the train station. I had been invited to go with them camping about an hour and a half outside of Irkutsk, in a park known for it's "Natural Statues." We arrived by electrichka Friday night, found a place to set up camp, fixed dinner and spent the night. We woke up early to pack up and hike for the remainder of the day, returning at 7pm on the last electrichka. I am so glad that I agreed to go--I had the time of my life. I want more than anything to return here next summer after graduation and just hike around the wilderness, working on the GBT summer projects. The nature here is unparalleled--take a look:

Hope you enjoyed the multimedia. This week was very different than last in terms of weather--it was 74 degrees here today! Spring has arrived and I have about a month left to enjoy it :) Until next time!

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