Week 19 in Russia: Saying Goodbye to Siberia

As I wrote this, I was looking out my airplane window onto the great Russian landscape. I saw my last bit of snow on the caps of mountains from my flight from Irkutsk to Moscow. I can't believe that my five months in Russia have come to an end. It flew, just as I will fly from Moscow to Chicago.

My last week in Irkutsk began last Sunday with "City Day"--a holiday celebrating the city of Irkutsk. I had been working on my 15 page paper, but took a break in the evening to hear a jazz concert on the banks of the Angara. An African American jazz singer performed--and I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who understood her as she chatted and sang in English. I almost wanted to shout "GO USA!" or something equivalent in solidarity to another American in Irkutsk, but I held it back. Instead, Sasha and I went for a walk and took stupid pictures with a Dima Bilan perfume advertisement.

This is a gift for Hannah.

I finished my paper on Monday and turned it in Tuesday morning. The rest of the day Tuesday, Sasha and I went to Listvianka for a picnic and my farewell to Baikal. In celebration, I even ate Omyl', the traditional fish to eat from Baikal. This video is from that beautiful last day on Baikal:

Wednesday and Thursday I ran around running errands: buying souvenirs, gathering documents from the university, and packing. On Thursday, I went to the international office to fax my transcript to Wesleyan. While I was waiting, I chatted with the women who work in the office. One of them paused, looked up at me and said, "If I didn't already know that you were a foreigner, I would have thought that you were Russian." She conferred with her colleague and they agreed that my accent was barely audible. It was a great compliment for me, leaving that office for the last time.

Thursday night was my last GBT club meeting, so I made banana chocolate-chip muffins for the last time. Katya and Sasha came over to help. Out meeting went as per usual, but right before we concluded, Natasha announced my departure and I was gifted with a bunch of balloons, a cook's apron and oven mitt, Baikal souvenirs, and a map of GBT's trails on Lake Baikal. I was near to tears, but held it back as we took pictures together. Sasha picked us up, took Katya home, and then we watched half of Slumdog Millionaire with curried popcorn.

With Katya

On Friday, I ran my last errands, taking pictures and buying final souvenirs. I met Sasha on the banks of the Angara for our last walk, and then we went to the grocery store to buy Russian candy and beer. I was almost out of rubles, but with my last 50 rubles, we stopped at a vegetable stand to get something for dinner. I ended up getting a carrot, 2 potatoes, 3 tomatoes, and 2 cucumbers for the equivalent of about $1.20, and then we went home to make paella, tortilla espanola, tomato-cucumber salad, and sauteed mushrooms with the remaining ingredients that I had. I started to get gloomy about leaving after emptying my fridge and cooking my last dinner, and was in light tears on my balcony, when I realized that I had 50 rubles left that I didn't notice earlier. I asked Sasha if he wanted ice cream, so we scurried off to the store to get some with my last 50 rubles. We bought two with 9 rubles to spare, and went to the children's playground to swing. We ate ice cream, swung on a two-person swing (not sure what they're called, but you face each other, sitting, kind a like on a bench), and then raced back to the store like little kids. I felt so much better and didn't want to cry anymore. After that, Sasha went home and I called my friend Yulya to say goodbye. We walked for almost an hour, and then I went to our going away party on the fifth floor. I said my goodbyes and went to bed.

In the morning, Sasha came to take me to the airport. There, my friends from GBT met me to send me off. I was happy to see them again, and really had to keep from crying when I separated from them to go through security. I just read a letter from Katya, telling me that I had become like a sister to her, and she's right. I feel like I have more than just a second-cousin in Siberia. I have an entire extended family. I promised them all that I would see them again, and I feel better about leaving when I have the strong intention of returning firmly planted in my mind. A part of me is there, a piece of my heart, and I know I will return. I felt very loved getting on that plane, and I know that open arms await me when I return. Thank you for everything. I promise I'll be back.

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Week 18 in Russia: Olkhon Island

Week 18--my second-to-last week in Russia. It's starting to sink in that I'm leaving in a week. I have taken all my exams and only have one 15 page paper standing in my way to enjoying the 80 degree weather during my last week. Luckily, the weather is cooperating with my wish to get some work done this weekend, and it's currently 50 degrees and rainy. The forecast is promising from Monday-Saturday, though, so I'd better get my work done fast. As in, I should be working instead of writing this blog right now, but eh, I've got the rest of the night.

Anyway, last Saturday and Sunday, I went with four Russians and two other Americans to Olkhon Island. We set off bright and early Saturday morning, stopping along the way at a camp that Sasha lived in for a few weeks of a practicum during the summer after his first course in construction. He was excited to see that it was still intact, and proceeded to take a handful of pictures on my camera:

The road after our stop at Sasha's old camp was pretty much non-existent. The other car that we were traveling with got a flat tire and had to change to the spare. The road got better right before we made it to the ferry-crossing to Olkhon Island. There we waited about an hour and a half for the next ferry, seeing the view of the island from the shore and making friends with the local wild cows.

Jake wants to play, the cow doesn't

The view from the shore before taking the ferry

When the ferry finally came, I had another taste of Russian "lines" as cars from the back of the line cut in front of our car to get on the first ferry. We waited and got on the second one, though, and the ride was beautiful.

Sasha looking out over Lake Baikal on the ferry

Once on the other side, we caught up to the other car, which had made it across on the first ferry. We decided to go climb on a highly sacred rock to the Buryat people. You're not really supposed to climb it. Or collect rocks. Of course, we obeyed these rules...right? (PS Mom, I have some rocks for you).

After playing on the rock a bit (and for me, collecting rocks), we drove along the beach to find a place to set up camp. We chose a spot not far from where the sacred rock is located, and set up three tents only a walks distance from the beach. It was windy, but otherwise the weather was great. We made soup, salad, and sashlik, and enjoyed our feast in the fresh air. At night, we gathered around the fire for warmth and toasted to our trip.

Our camp: 3 tents and a fire / The sunset over Baikal

In the morning, I took a walk with Sasha's friend Yurka to the cliffs at end of our beach. Jake, one of the Americans, decided to take a dip in Lake Baikal. I thought about it, but just getting my feet wet was cold enough for me. Yurka and I had breakfast and played cards until lunchtime. After lunch, I took a nap in the sun and got some serious sunburn on my face. We packed up our stuff and headed back to Irkutsk, arriving around midnight to our dormitory.

Jake tests the water / We all pose for a picture

The rest of this week was all in Irkutsk. I sang "Star-Crossed" from Steve Sunu's Orpheus at a "Best Students" ceremony on Tuesday. They had asked me to perform again, and this time I was allowed to chose a song. Naturally, I chose one that I knew well, and that is close to my heart. :)

On Wednesday, my second cousin came to Irkutsk to get a visa from the Polish embassy. She was here until Friday night. I showed her around Irkutsk and we skype with my mom and babushka on Friday before she left. It was great to see her again and know that our ties are firmly established.

Next week, when I write this blog, I will be saying my goodbyes--if I haven't said them already. I am looking forward to a week of good weather, and hope that I get this paper finished in time to enjoy it!

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Week 17 in Russia: Trailblazing Across Siberia

And now for weekly update with Elizabeth Trammell and...Elizabeth Trammell.

It seems like everyone else has fallen off the face of this blog, but I will continue keep you entertained with two more weekly updates. :)

Last week (actually two weekends ago, but I count Sunday as the start of a new week), Great Baikal Trail held its yearly seminar at the Botanical Garden. This seminar is a "mini project" as final preparation for the summer. I have spent this semester preparing and training as if I were going on a summer project as a translator, group leader, or a helper of a group leader. This seminar was my chance to feel as if I went on a summer project. :)

Great Baikal Trail's Banner

My group's work on Saturday

My Table at Dinner on Saturday

We started early Saturday morning at 9am. It was drizzly and cold, but we happily continued with our icebreakers and getting to know each other. After working in groups for a little while, we decided the weather was nice enough to begin work. At first, I was working as a volunteer on the trail, under the direction of a 'brigadier' (or group leader). We took a break for lunch and I acted in a skit with the other people who were trained as translators. (Translators not only translate for foreigners on the project--they also provide entertainment and make sure that everyone has a good time). After our lunch break, however, our volunteer coordinator decided to try an experiment and switched me in to be the group leader. I didn't really know what I was doing, but it was an honor for me to feel as if I were a brigadier on a project, even for half a day. I feel like I learned more by trying to be a group leader, and I'm very grateful for the experience. We all worked together, and as group leader I called out our five minute breaks, checked the evenness of the trail, and made sure everyone stuck to our safety rules. I ended up leaving after dinner, even though some people stayed the night at the Botanical Garden. I was dead tired, came home, took a bath, and slept like a baby.

Some early Sunday morning entertainment from one of our translators

The part of the trail we finished on Sunday

Olga, my group leader, putting down gravel

"..I've been working on the trail, all the live long day."

The next morning, I returned for half a day's work back on the trail. This time, I switched groups to fill in as a helper of a group leader ('brigadier helper' when literally translated from Russian). I also got to explain to a group of new adult volunteers how to work on the trail. We finished our section and started putting gravel down before lunch. After lunch, I had to go, but I felt satisfied knowing that I helped build 150 meters of trail in the Botanical Garden as a translator, group leader, and helper. Even though I am sad about not being able to go on a summer project, the seminar made me feel as though I was able to participate. Next summer, I want more than anything to come back in some capacity for a summer project. Now that I know the ropes and have had all the intensive training--how could I not?

I must also note that last week my roommate went back to America. Before her departure, we created a photo session around town. Technically, this picture goes with Week 16, but in honor of her departure during Week 17, I have included it. I can't believe I've been without her for almost a whole week already. My room is quiet and empty without you--I miss you, Hannah!

Next time: The last big trip - Camping on Olkhon Island

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